【一年来ないうちに進化と変化が、半端ない】 : Toritaka

I visited the popular yakitori restaurant "Toritaka" in Karuizawa, where it had started snowing, for the first time in a while. I had to make a reservation a month in advance as it was hard to get one.

The interior has changed and now has a chic yet luxurious atmosphere. It seems the dishes provided have been re-fired according to the owner's preferences, which likely means the final bill will be a bit higher (laughs).

Since it was cold and I drove there, we started off with warm Oolong Tea to toast.

We began with "Warm Dashi with Tsukune and Japanese Radish." The broth was rich and invigorated with fresh ginger, warming my body. The flavor was delicious.

Next, came the "Chicken Breast" topped with plum paste, which complemented the meat’s flavor excellently. I felt the creativity in yakitori dishes has significantly increased compared to a year ago.

The "Chicken Wings" were served right on the dish. The juices were plentiful, spilling over beautifully.

For the "Broccoli," the crunchy texture was enhanced by a Thousand Island-style dressing, making it quite delightful.

The "Thick Skin from the Thigh (at the joint)" was deliciously crispy. The meat that clung to the skin was infused with rich flavor.

When it came to the "Shoulder Meat," the enjoyment lies in the crispy skin. It was served with a sauce that tasted reminiscent of a cold Italian tomato sauce, almost a gazpacho or ratatouille; the acidity was effective and delicious.

"Salad with Napa Cabbage and Shungiku" served as a refreshing interlude. The crisp texture of the cabbage was outstanding.

As for the "Heart," it had a delightful, plump texture that was very tasty. Topped with wasabi, it wasn’t too overpowering, likely due to the fat. Still, it was delicious.

The "Peas" were seasoned and offered a satisfying crunch. I sensed a greater inclusion of vegetables between the chicken pieces compared to before.

Surprisingly, even while still in the middle of the course, they presented the rice dish featuring quail eggs. It was "Shimonita Green Onion Soboro Rice, quail eggs, and sweet pickled Japanese radish." This was a robust new item. The soboro rice was tasty, and the quail eggs had a much improved flavor and cooking method. One was eaten as is, while the other was mixed into the rice; both were delightful!

It seems the quality of the boiled quail eggs is affected by factors like the time spent soaking in salted water. It was clear they are continuously researching and refining their dishes.

Next up were "Camembert, Shiitake, and Chicken Pâté." The Camembert was beautifully grilled to a crisp surface, making for a wonderful texture. Previously, miso was used for flavoring, but this time, the Camembert blended with the flavors of the pâté and shiitake; it was delicious.

Then came the "Thigh Meat with Ginger." The skin had absorbed fat more than that from the calf, and the ginger balanced the flavors nicely.

For the "Sorires," a cut from the root of the chicken thigh, it was served with grated soy sauce and green onions. The skin was, of course, crispy, while the meat had a firm texture full of flavor.

Finally, we enjoyed "Grilled Rice Ball Chazuke." The rice ball was coated in ginger soy sauce and included yam, enhancing its taste compared to before.

They had also prepared a "Rice with Raw Egg," but I was already quite full, so I’ll save that for my next visit.

For dessert, there was a "Mint Pudding." They previously didn’t offer desserts, but they’re continuing to evolve. It tasted similar to panna cotta, and the mint left a refreshing aftertaste, making for a lovely finishing touch.

Chef Tsuchiya is deeply committed to his cooking, and he seems increasingly passionate about it, continuously getting more involved. There’s a sense they aren't stopping at the current level.

I’m curious to see how things will evolve by my next visit. This place may be changing from a yakitori restaurant to a creative chicken cuisine establishment.

When I first visited three and a half years ago, I had a course with 2-3 drinks for around JPY 10,000. Due to rising costs, this time it was around JPY 14,000 for the same amount of drinks, gradually becoming a high-end yakitori establishment.

Being in Karuizawa, I want to support the owner’s inquisitiveness, and they’ve been hiring more staff, so I guess it’s an inevitable trend.

A popular yakitori restaurant in Karuizawa. Despite having two seating times at 5 PM and 7 PM, it’s always fully booked, and the next reservation is available only after March (though they seem to be closed for renovations in February...). It feels like you usually need to wait two months, but lately, it seems it's more like a three-month wait.

This time, I reserved for the 5 PM seating. After some light conversation and greetings, I ordered a beer.

After a toast, we started with the "Turnip Soup". It had a delicious flavor with a hint of spiciness from grated daikon. A perfect warming dish coming from the cold outside.

Next was the "Ginkgo" – a lovely flavor, reminding us that the season is almost over.

For the appetizer, we had "Grilled Eggplant, Shiitake, Camembert & Miso". This is a classic grilled Camembert dish made with miso from Matsumiya Honten, the family shop of chef Tsuchiya's wife. It was superb.

We then moved on to the chicken. Starting with "Chicken Breast with Shiso and Miso". A delicious balance of shiso, miso, and breast meat, enjoyed in one bite. The skin was crispy and flavorful.

Then came the "Furisode, Shiso, and Daikon". The 'Furisode' is a cut between breast meat and chicken wings, juicy and tender. The fat from the meat was nicely balanced by the refreshing daikon and shiso. It was delightful.

Next up was the "Chicken Wings". Just the sight of the perfectly grilled skin whets the appetite. The wings are rich and tasty. Oh, did I already finish them all?

After that, we enjoyed "Broccoli". A refreshing dish of raw broccoli and homemade dressing to cut through the richness of the previous course.

We also had "Liver". Cooked just right, moist and delicious.

Now, "Shungiku and Onion" for a refreshing touch in the mouth.

Then came the "Quail". The insides were a melty soft-boiled delight and, despite not being on the regular menu before, I requested it and was pleased when they brought it back. I appreciate the effort it takes to prepare; it was certainly a delicious skewer.

Next was the "Tsukune". This ground chicken mixed with Nozawana is distinctively delicious and something unique to this Karuizawa location. If you're in Shinshu, you definitely want to try this.

Moving on to the "Kairi Shamo, Calf Shank". As the juicy calf shank came out, I knew we were nearing the end of our meal, which was a bit bittersweet.

For the last bite, we had "Sabi". A light finish with tender chicken breast topped with wasabi.

We rounded off with "Ochazuke". A classic closing dish with grilled rice balls in a mushroom broth, the aroma of yuzu igniting our appetites. I thoroughly enjoyed tonight's meal.

Finally, the "Yuzu-flavored Milk Pudding"... Wait? I’ve never seen desserts served here before, but today there was one?! ... Curiously, it turns out that chef Tsuchiya read my review and decided to add desserts to the menu. I’m sorry for asking, but thank you! A light finish with this "Yuzu-flavored Milk Pudding" – not too sweet and a perfect way to end off the meal.

I had to leave a bit hurriedly as the next guests were arriving. It was delicious, and I’ll be back next year! Happy New Year!

Although the number of reviews on Tabelog is not that high, this place is definitely a gem.
I visited on a day when it had suddenly snowed after feeling quite warm.

I came here with three former colleagues who live in Karuizawa, marking my first visit in two months.
Everyone else was a first-timer. Since a friend was driving, I enjoyed a hot water with Mugiko Shochu (Kanpachi).

The owner, Mr. Tsuchiya, was busy arranging the charcoal with a hammer while skillfully preparing the skewers. The staff first brought out the appetizers.
"New potato salad with camembert miso and nanohana (rape blossoms)..." The new potato salad has a potato salad-like taste. The camembert was marinated in miso from a long-established store, Shinshu Miso Matsuyahonpo, near Nakakaruizawa Station, giving it a rich flavor. The nanohana had a slight bitterness, feeling like spring. Alternating between the camembert, new potatoes, and nanohana created a variety of flavors, showing that they thoughtfully crafted the appetizers.

"Kairi Jidori Chicken Breast..." This dish had a slightly chewy texture. The grilling was as meticulous as ever, demonstrating excellent cooking techniques.

"Chicken Wings..." Brilliantly cooked. The skin was grilled to a perfect crisp, while the meat was juicy with melting fat. I believe both Yakitori Burnes and this place have excellent grilling techniques, but these two are my top two choices.

"Tomato, Broccoli..." Fresh vegetables to cleanse the palate.

"Quail Eggs..." Previously not served, the owner has been researching and adjusting the cooking method, now serving them a bit more well-done rather than soft-boiled. It’s such dedication that wins fans over.

"Liver..." Soft and melt-in-your-mouth texture. Their meticulous use of charcoal and control of airflow show constant refinement in their grilling skills. Each visit feels like they are evolving. It's incredibly delicious.

"Tsukune..." Made with both fine and coarse ground meat, mixed with cartilage, they’ve increased the amount of nozawana pickles inside compared to before—an ingenious upgrade. It may look the same at first glance, but there's a continual evolution.

"Kairi Jidori Chicken Calf..." Initially served was the chicken breast, but this time it was the calf. Usually predominantly thigh meat, this piece is also firm yet not tough and delicious.

"Sasami (chicken tender)..." Exceptionally moist sasami with just the right amount of seasoning.

As for the course, we were scheduled to have 'Grilled Rice Balls with Dashi Soup' afterwards, but first, the staff asked if we wanted to order anything extra.
I usually order the "Skin", but I opted out of additional orders today as I was quite full.

Finally, we had the classic 'Grilled Rice Balls with Dashi Soup'... Served with chicken dashi soup. The flavor of the oblique-cut burdock seeped through, adding to the deliciousness. The total balance of the flavorful soup, the roasted rice ball aroma, the umami from the katsuobushi and burdock, along with the acidity from the sudachi citrus, is simply wonderful.

I left today satisfied.
Hmm, I wish there was something sweet to finish off this meal.
A dessert of any kind—fruit, wagashi, or ice cream would be great.
Somehow, I always find myself craving something sweet before leaving. I hope to have a sweet ending next time.

It has gotten quite cool in Karuizawa.
During the busy summer season, this yakitori spot, Toritaka, was always fully booked, so it’s been two months since I last visited with a former colleague who lives in Karuizawa.
This was his first time here.
Today he will be driving, which means I can enjoy some drinks. So, I ordered a warm mugicha (barley shochu) with hot water.

Chef Tsuchiya prepares the charcoal while arranging the ingredients, and the staff brings out the first appetizer.
"Camembert miso-marinated shiitake mushrooms"… The Camembert is spread with miso from the long-established "Shinshu Miso Matsuya" near Nakakaruizawa Station, which adds rich flavor. I enjoyed the shiitake mushrooms as a delightful accent in between bites of Camembert.

"Kairaji Shamo Chicken Furisode"… It has a slightly firm texture.

"Ginkgo nuts"… Beautifully colored, with a great texture.

"Chicken Wings"… Perfectly cooked. The skin is grilled until crispy, while the meat inside is juicy and bursting with flavor. I think the grilling here is incredible, and these two dishes are in my top two.

"Tomato and Broccoli"… Fresh, delicious vegetables to cleanse the palate.

"Heart"… A delightful texture, super tender. The grilling technique and the balance of the surface and inside keep being refined using different charcoal and airflow. It feels like the chef is constantly innovating and evolving the dishes. So very delicious.

"Tsukune"… Contains both finely chopped and coarsely ground meat, with an increased amount of nozawana pickles inside, showcasing some creativity. It may look the same at first glance, but it keeps changing subtly.

"Kairaji Shamo Chicken Thigh"… Initially served was the same Kairaji Shamo chicken Furisode, but now it’s the thigh meat, which is also juicy.

"Chicken Breast"… Surprisingly moist chicken breast. So delicious...

The course meal is set to include "charcoal grilled rice balls in broth" next, but before that, I am asked if I’d like to order anything else.
I decided to go with "skin" again today.

This "skin" is not crispy, but instead has a perfect texture that is neither too soft nor too hard, with a wonderful umami flavor apparent.

Finally, the classic "charcoal grilled rice balls in broth" arrives… We pour chicken broth over it. The flavorful broth, the aroma of the grilled rice, the essence of bonito flakes, the texture of the nameko mushrooms, and the acidity of the sudachi citrus create a fabulous balance.

Once again, I’m satisfied.
Hmm, it would be nice to have a dessert option to finish off, something sweet…
Whether it’s fruit, wagashi (Japanese sweets), or ice cream…
I somehow always find myself wanting something sweet before heading home. I really want to wrap this up nicely.

On this day, every customer was a regular who had visited this restaurant multiple times, as inferred from the conversations with the head chef and the service staff.
It’s a place that locals frequent.

Of course, when I first visited a year ago, they were incredibly kind to me, which is one of the great things about this restaurant—they are welcoming even to newcomers.
In total, this was my fifth visit in a year.

This is one reason why I keep coming back, along with the taste and price, as I typically spend around JPY 10,000 when I drink (the yakitori course alone is in the JPY 7,000 range).

That day's appetizer was "new potatoes, kogomi (young fern), and miso-marinated grilled Camembert"… the miso-marinated grilled Camembert is a staple, along with the new combination of potatoes and kogomi.
Today, the miso did seem a bit lighter, but I really appreciate the chef's approach of varying the dishes each time, so I never get tired of the flavors.

"Wing tips"… as always, the cooking is superb.
The skin is beautifully crispy, while the meat remains tender and juicy, with fat dripping off.

Served on the side was "fresh ginger"… this fresh ginger is a delicacy on its own.
I’d almost consider taking some home.

Next up was "grated radish with Kai-jidori chicken’s furisode."
Kai-jidori chicken is raised under strict feeding and husbandry methods at Nakamura Farm in the Yatsugatake highlands.
While it has a gentler flavor compared to the golden chicken served during my previous visits, both have ample umami, and I equally enjoy either.
It comes down to personal preference…

As a palate refresher, there was "broccoli, sugar snap peas, topped with a little ginger mayonnaise."
The chef is particular about this mayonnaise, adding extra sudachi citrus to enhance its freshness.

"Seseri"… it’s tender with a texture that isn't typically seseri-like but is nevertheless delicious.

"Tsukune"… Hmm? What’s this leafy green inside? As I was eating, Chef Tsuchiya mentioned he tried a different way of making the tsukune this time.
Inside, it has nozawana (Japanese mustard leaf).
Not only that, he mixed coarsely and finely minced chicken.
The coarse texture is quite evident.
Personally, I love tsukune with chopped cartilage or lotus root, but I also liked this version.
I thought, if we could have a tsukune tasting comparison, I could easily eat two or three skewers.

"Cold Cauliflower Soup"… interspersed between yakitori, there are palate-cleansing dishes, and this soup was no exception; made with care and delicious, the seasonal ingredients change each time, adding to the enjoyment.
Last year, there was pumpkin in September, turnip in December, and this time it was cauliflower.

"Chen chicken breast, with a little ginger"… the ginger effectively refreshes the overall richness of the fat.

"Onion Slice Salad"… as delicious as ever.
While it might be a side dish in other restaurants, in a way, it could also be considered a signature dish of this place.

"Sasami (chicken tender)"… served with a touch of salt, it’s refreshing.
At a typical yakitori shop, I’d expect this skewer at the beginning, but the chef intends for it to end the meal, refreshing the palate in the process.

Now, we enter the encore, the options time.
While the chef wanted to finish on a refreshing note, contrary to his intention, I ordered extra skin and liver.

"Skin"… it’s not crispy but offers a delightful softness and slight char. The sauce and sansho pepper complement it perfectly.

For the "liver," the chef has been mindful not to make it too rare, carefully turning the skewers during low-temperature cooking.
It was also delicious.

And for the finale, "grilled rice balls with ochazuke (rice in tea)"… this features spring burdock and chicken dashi, creating a lovely shabu-shabu feel.
With a bit of sudachi citrus, it left me with a refreshing taste in my mouth one more time.

As always, it was delightful.
I’ve already reserved for two months from now, but it seems nearly full…
I’ve heard that there can be cancellations, so I might wait for that, or if there’s availability on the day, I could dine in the somewhat lonely waiting area instead of at the counter…
Either way, it feels like a fierce competition for seats, similar to popular restaurants in Tokyo.
It’s delicious, reasonable, and with good hospitality, so it’s no surprise.

A popular yakitori restaurant that is always fully booked for two seatings. It's a rare find in Karuizawa to enjoy delicious yakitori.

Actually, I visited here four times last year but refrained from writing a review on Tabelog. It seems that only one person has written a review, and the rest of us are keeping this place a secret.

This is understandable since regulars tend to secure their next reservation as soon as they arrive, making it quite difficult to get a booking.

I'm hesitant but cautiously writing this after receiving permission from the owner, Mr. Tsuchiya, to do so as part of a special New Year’s project. However, due to various circumstances, I might end up taking this post down after a while.

This is the story from my visit last December. The temperature outside was -3°C. Very cold!

The restaurant has nine counter seats, with the first seating starting at 5 PM. This time, my group of four decided to attend the second seating at 7 PM, which allowed for a more relaxed dining experience. Of course, it was fully booked.

Mr. Tsuchiya, the owner, just became independent two years ago, but the restaurant is already very popular.

The grilling area is separated by acrylic panels, preventing smoke from reaching the dining area and ensuring it gets ventilated. He mentioned they have strong confidence in their ventilation even during the pandemic.

We were seated at a spot where we could enjoy the careful preparation firsthand beside the grilling area.

First, to warm us up from the -3°C chilly air,
we had the "Golden Satsuma Chicken White Soup"—a rich, collagen-filled broth that warmed us up. It's profoundly flavorful and delicious.

Next, we had "Tororo Yam with Nozawana"… This rustic yet creative appetizer made from local ingredients is always a delight.

Now, the yakitori began:
"Tebasaki (Chicken Wings)"… I watched how they were grilled right in front of me, and the care and precision put into the cooking was remarkable. It was superbly executed.

"Bonjiri (Chicken Fat Tail)"… Rich in flavor and delicious.

"Nozawana"… A refreshing dish to cleanse the palate.

"Chilled Turnip Soup"… Although served to refresh the palate, it was itself rich and creamy and absolutely delightful.

"Shinshu Golden Satsuma Chicken Breast"… Eaten with the accompanying Myoga (Japanese ginger), ginger, and Mitsuba (Japanese wild parsley). It paired beautifully with the precisely cooked breast meat.

"Onion Slices with Chicken"… Here, the onion slices aren't just a palate cleanser; I believe they are a specialty. They go to great lengths in terms of preparation.

"Tsukune (Chicken Meatball)"… Contains chopped bell peppers and shiso leaf, inspired by something made during staff meals. The details will be revealed in Episode 1.

"Camembert with Shiitake Mushrooms"… Grilled shiitake mushrooms with miso-marinated Camembert. This dish is exquisite, developed from a hint provided by the owner's wife's family, who runs a miso shop in Nakakaruizawa. A specialty I look forward to each time.

"Shinshu Golden Satsuma Chicken with Grated Daikon and Mushrooms"… A creative take on yakitori that lets you enjoy it beyond just skewers. They continuously innovate, providing new delights each time.

"White Liver"… This special ingredient, sourced from a producer, takes over two hours to prepare and is only served when available. What a lucky day to enjoy it! Its melt-in-your-mouth goodness is exquisite. Additionally, I paired it with a sweet confiture from Sadaharu Aoki for a flavor twist.
Interestingly, the owner Mr. Tsuchiya and Mr. Aoki are reportedly good friends these days, and it seems Mr. Aoki often visits this restaurant.

"Chicken Breast"… The fresh and lean breast paired with wasabi. The precise cooking here is wonderful. This concludes the course, but even though I was quite full, I knew there was something I had to try.

For an extra skewer, I ordered:
"Seseri (Chicken Neck Meat)"… I usually never miss ordering this. Ideally, I’d love a slightly meatier texture. However, this is still an area with potential for improvement, so I look forward to seeing how it develops in the future.

Finally, to finish off, we had "Grilled Rice Ball Zosui (Rice Porridge)"… They grilled the rice ball on the net, flavored it with ginger soy sauce, and instead of using soy sauce for the dashi, they used salt as a base, adding ginger and Korean ginseng. The concept is reminiscent of Samgyetang and creates a medicinal soup.
It’s not only creative but also intricate in preparation. And delicious!

Now that I’ve finished writing, I’m still considering whether to post it...

I’m not sure when I’ll be back in Karuizawa, so I haven’t made my next reservation. There have been a few places where I couldn’t secure a booking after writing about them, which makes me hesitant. However, I initially started this review with the concept of "sharing the happiness of food," so if I'm faithful to that concept, I can’t hold back from posting. Hence, with great caution, I’ll go ahead and post it!