1つ1つにストーリーの詰まった絶品の数々 : MANO

A 10-minute taxi ride from Karuizawa Station,
"MANO"
This time, I opted for the half-glass pairing course priced at JPY 24,000.
Course Contents:
- Forest Soup
- Pulled Wild Boar
- Chrysanthemum
- New Soba with Charred Miso
- Wild Bird Meatballs with Green Daikon
- Celery Root
- Trout Roe with Wild Mushrooms
- Wild Boar with Maitake Mushrooms and Soy Sauce Koji
- Arroz con Bacalao y Puerros
- Grilled Persimmon with Sweet Sake
- Hōzuki (Japanese Lantern Plant)
- Walnuts
- Tea Sweets
- Coffee or Herbal Tea
The Forest Soup is a game-based soup made with Honshu deer, badger, and dried mushrooms. It is served in a one-go bowl, which you hold in your hands to enjoy the aroma. The name "mano" means "hand" in Spanish, and by holding the bowl this way, you can better capture the fragrance. It’s a comforting and gentle soup.
The pulled wild boar consists of smoked shoulder and belly meat, stewed with spices, resembling a fried dish cooked over wood fire. It has a wonderful aroma and is incredibly delicious. The pairing begins here with cider, which harmonizes beautifully with the floral notes I initially sensed when drinking it alone.
The chrysanthemum is prepared as a salad with jmfg's cava vinegar. This was my first time enjoying chrysanthemum so thoroughly. I never imagined this vinegar could taste so deliciously straightforward.
The new soba with charred miso resembles a loose soba dumpling stew. Since it contains no animal products, I was encouraged to eat it with a bamboo spoon. When I forgot it was soba and took a bite, I was pleasantly surprised by its gentleness, with the miso providing a nice accent.
The wild bird meatballs with green daikon are made from pheasant and duck, finished with grated kiwifruit. They have a meaty texture with a hint of Japanese flavor, and I really enjoyed them with the paired wine. The contrast of aroma and taste, along with the pairing, was delightful.
The celery root was a standout dish. It features a sweet and aromatic combination of butter milk and roasted celery root, fermented with koji. While it retains the essence of celery root, the balance of sweetness and other flavors is remarkable. The pairing was with a sparkling pear beverage made from only fully ripened fruit, with aromas reminiscent of apple pie and a hint of petrol.
The trout roe with wild mushrooms is served in a broth made simply by boiling naratake and amitake mushrooms in water, with the roe cooked just enough to maintain its texture. There’s an incredible amount of roe, which brings immense joy to eat.
The young Chardonnay and Solera Riesling offered a peachy sensation.
The wild boar with maitake mushrooms and soy sauce koji is a char siu-style dish cooked with soy sauce koji. The maitake sauce is reduced with wild boar bones and port wine. The potatoes are seasoned with a spice called Wuxiangfen, which tastes like cinnamon and is delicious. The pairing was with a wine that has sherry barrel notes, which complemented the spice elements well.
Arroz con bacalao y puerros features cod soft roe and leek paella, cooked with clam and razor clam broth. The presence of the leek was stronger than I expected. The pairing was surprisingly with Meursault.
The grilled persimmon with sweet sake has a wonderful texture and sweetness, with the sweet sake served as ice cream.
The hōzuki is paired with Basque cheesecake, but the star is the sauce. It feels incredibly fresh, almost like eating the edible hōzuki itself.
The walnuts are coated in ice cream, leaving a rich impression that makes you wonder if there’s any butter in it.
For dessert, there are tea sweets and either coffee or herbal tea. The tea sweets include soba cake and red wine rakugan. I was surprised by the drink options, which change about 5-6 times a year to pair with the dishes, or you can choose your own ingredients for herbal tea. I decided on a blend of osmanthus, fig leaves, and a bit of rosemary while chatting.
There are so many stories behind each dish, and the time spent here was truly enjoyable. It was a wonderful experience.