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老板(あるじ)、井上憲(ゐのうへけん)師傅(おやかた)【掲載許可濟】2022-12撮影
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主人(あるじ)、井上憲(ゐのうへけん)師傅(おやかた)【掲載許可濟】2022-12撮影
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"外觀(かまへ)"
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"肆内(なか)"
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"肆内(なか)"
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"餐巾(くちぬぐひ)"
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"餐巾(くちぬぐひ)"
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"菜譜(こんだて)"
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"麪麭碟(パンざら)"
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"刀匕(カトラリ、めしがたなとにくゞし )"
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"赤葡萄酒(あかきえびかづらのさけ)"
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"赤葡萄酒(あかきえびかづらのさけ)"
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玻瓈杯(ぎやまんさかづき)に"赤葡萄酒(あかきえびかづらのさけ)"
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【一口(アミューズ・ブーシュ、はじめのひとくち)】、"大口魚(たら)"×"水果蕃茄(くだものあかなす)"
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"橄欖油(オリーヴあぶら)"
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"橄欖油(オリーヴあぶら)"
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碟(さら)に"橄欖油(オリーヴあぶら)"
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"麪麭(パン)"
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"麪麭(パン)"
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【先附(オー・ドゥヴル、さきづけ)】、"菊芋(きくいも)"×"芥菜仔(からしのたね)"
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【先附(オー・ドゥヴル、さきづけ)】、"菊芋(きくいも)"×"芥菜仔(からしのたね)"
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【先附(オー・ドゥヴル、さきづけ)】、"蔥(ねぶか)"×"鴨油(あひがものあぶら)"
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【先附(オー・ドゥヴル、さきづけ)】、"蔥(ねぶか)"×"鴨油(あひがものあぶら)"
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【先附(オー・ドゥヴル、さきづけ)】、"深谷蔥(ふかやねぎ)"
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【先附(オー・ドゥヴル、さきづけ)】、"深谷蔥(ふかやねぎ)"
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【先附(オー・ドゥヴル、さきづけ)】、"鮮蠔(かき)"×"黑甘藍(くろはぼたん)"
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【先附(オー・ドゥヴル、さきづけ)】、"鮮蠔(かき)"×"黑甘藍(くろはぼたん)"の下層(した)に"意大利燉飯(リゾット)"
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【魚介(ポアソン、うをやかい)】、"馬鮫魚(さはら)"
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【魚介(ポアソン、うをやかい)】、"馬鮫魚(さはら)"
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【魚介(ポアソン、うをやかい)】、配搭(つけあはせ)の"菘根(かぶら)"
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【魚介(ポアソン、うをやかい)】、配搭(つけあはせ)の"菘根(かぶら)"
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"魚醤(うをびしほ)"
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"魚醤(うをびしほ)"
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"餐刀(めしがたな)"+"餐叉(にくゞし)"
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【禽獸肉(ヴィヤンド、とりけだものゝにく)】、"煎鴨肉(あひがものにくのあぶり)"
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【禽獸肉(ヴィヤンド、とりけだものゝにく)】、"煎鴨肉(あひがものにくのあぶり)"
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【禽獸肉(ヴィヤンド、とりけだものゝにく)】、配搭(つけあはせ)の"香茹(しひたけ)"+"慈姑(をもたか)"
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【禽獸肉(ヴィヤンド、とりけだものゝにく)】、配搭(つけあはせ)の"慈姑(をもたか)"
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【禽獸肉(ヴィヤンド、とりけだものゝにく)】、配搭(つけあはせ)の"香菌(しひたけ)"
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【甜品(デセール、あまみ)】、"橘(みかん、たちばなのみ)"×"酒糟(さけかす)"
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【甜品(デセール、あまみ)】、"橘(みかん、たちばなのみ)"×"酒糟(さけかす)"
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【茶(カフェ、のみもの)】、"草本茶(くすりちや)"
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【茶(カフェ、のみもの)】、"寒具(プティ・フール、ちやうけ)"、金塊蛋糕(フィナンシェ)
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【茶(カフェ、のみもの)】、"寒具(プティ・フール、ちやうけ)"、カヌレ
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老板(あるじ)"井上憲(ゐのうへけん)"、
×土建(どけん)、×土佐犬(とさけん)、〇『たいめいけん』に三年(みとせ)、
物眞似(ものまね)"R澤(あるさは)"、飯(めし)『NARISAWA』で八年(やとせ)。
、、と、研鑽修業(わざをおぼえ、うでをみがき)ての獨立開業(みせびらき)。
熟々(つらつら)、"師傅(おやかた)"の廚藝(くりやわざ)を眺(ながむ)るに、
歴然(まがふかたなき)左利(ひだりき)ゝ。
その"黑T恤姿(かざりけなきいでたち)"は、拉麪店(もろこしそばや)、
あるいは、『ル・マンジュ・トゥー』"谷昇師傅(たにおやかた)"を髣髴(おもはす)。
"亞麻布(いぬこまのぬの)"は無(な)く、
"餐具(カトラリ、めしがたな・にくゞし)"も、碟(さら)毎(ごと)には不換(かへぬ)。
"玻瓈杯(ぎやまんさかづき)"には無腳(あしがなし)。
こいつァ何(なん)とも緣起(えんぎ)が惡(わり)ぃ。
仍(すなは)ち、
"餐廳(レストラン、れうりや)"と云ふより"食堂(ビストロ、めしや)"の等類(たぐひ)。
"老板(あるじ)"辯明(いふ)やう:
「氣樂(きらく)に愉(たの)しんで頂(いたゞ)くが狙(ねら)ひにて、、」
"蔬菜(あをもの)"は《ヨロ研》など、產土(うぶすな)のものを用(つか)ひ、
"合鴨(あひがも)"は幸手(さつて)《濱田商店》、
"麪麭(パン)"も同(おな)じく幸手(さつて)の『cimai』、
と、武州東北部(このあたり)では風習(ありがちな、ならひ)の配搭(くみあはせ)。
海(うみ)無(な)きこの近邊(あたり)ゆゑ、
海產物(うみのさち)は、《蝦夷仙鳳址(せんぱうし)》の"殼附鮮蠔(からつきかき)"、
《志摩答志島(たうしゞま)》の"馬鮫魚(さはら)"、
と、遠隔地(とほく)の上等品(よきしな)を用(つか)ふ。
"芥菜仔(からしのたね)"の黑(くろ)さに魄飛(たましひみにそはず)。
種子(たね)を炮(あぶ)りて焦(こ)がすは『NARISAWA』の烹調法(やりかた)歟(か)?
"クレープ・シュゼット"にも"胡荽仔(コエンドロのたね)"。
これは炙(あぶ)ることなくその儘(まゝ)活用(いかす)。
名物(なにしおふ)《深谷(ふかや)》の"燒蔥(やきねぎ)":
敢(あ)へて"蒸氣烘烤爐(スチコン)"の上(うへ)に燒臺(やきだい)を設置(お)き、
"備長炭(しろずみ)"以て叮嚀(ねんごろ)に炮(あぶりや)く。
この"備長炭(しろずみ)"の產地(うぶすな)不詳(つまびらかならず)。
古來(いにしへよりこのかた)、
「鴨蔥(かもねぎ)」、"鴨(かも)"と"蔥(ねぎ)"とは女夫(めをと)の仲(なか)。
"燒蔥(やきねぎ)"に"合鴨(あひがも)"の肥膩(あぶら)、
不味(あぢあし)き理(ことわり)あるべからず。
地(ぢ)の"蔬菜(あをもの)"盡(づ)くしの中(なか)、
"意大利燉飯(リゾット)"の粳米(こめ)は"カルナローリ米(まい)"歟(か)? ※シランケド
これ亦(また)產土(うぶすな)不詳(つまびらかならず)。
その齒應(はごた)へには、口許(くちもと)不綻(ふくろばず)といふことなし。
當日(このひ)何(なに)より感服(したをまき)しは、
最(いと)叮嚀(ねんごろ)にして巧妙(たくみ)なる"火候(ひいれ)"の廚藝(わざ)。
火(ひ)を入(い)れ、指(ゆび)に突(つゝ)き、霎時(しばし)休(やす)ませ、
、、と云ふ細心(きめこまやか)なる作業(わざ)の反復(くりかへし)。
「釦(ぼたん)を押下(おす)ばかりの"蒸氣烘烤爐(スチコン)"では、
個體(ひとつひとつ)の差異(たがひ)・偏差(かたより)に對應(あわ)せがたく、
かく、鏊(いりなべ)と指先(ゆびさき)にて判斷(みきわむ)るが最善(なにいより)」
と、師傅(おやかた)は斷言(いひきる)。
前述(くだん)の"谷昇師傅(たにおやかた)"に一無差異(おなじ)。
"鹽(しほ)"はと窺(うかゞ)ふに、
「調劑(あぢつけ)には"ゲランド"、仕上(しあげ)の化粧鹽(けはひじほ)は"マルドン"」
との説明(よし)。
近傍(ちかく)の『ラ・ヴォワール』と比較(くらべ)て 稍(やゝ)高價格(たかめ)。
「有名(かくれなき)『NARISAWA』の廚藝(わざ)と味(あぢ)がこの價格(ね)*)なら」
と納得(おも)ふ歟(か)?
「晴(はれ)がましきは『ラ・ヴォワール』!」と惱(なや)む歟(か)?
『ラ・ヴォワール』には廚房(くりや)の隅々(すみずみ)迄(まで)通曉(しりつく)す、
"給仕長(メートル・ドテル)"が存在(を)り、
"桌布(テーブルクロス)"・ "餐巾(ナプキン)"は"亞麻布(リネン、いぬこまのぬの)"。
【甜品(デセール、あまみ)】もより上質纖細(よきもの)。
因(ちな)みに、當日(このひ)の菜譜(こんだて)は如下(つぎのとほり):
=======================================
【一口(アミューズ・ブーシュ、はじめのひとくち)】
・"大口魚(たら)"×"水果蕃茄(くだものあかなす)"
《蝦夷(えぞ)》の"大口魚(たら)"+
《上尾(あげを)》"水果蕃茄(くだものあかなす)"
【先附(オー・ドゥヴル、さきづけ)】:
・"菊芋(きくいも)"×"芥菜仔(からしなのたね)"
"芥菜仔(からしのたね)"は烤(あぶ)りて乾物(ひもの)に
・"蔥(ねぶか)"×"鴨油(あひがものあぶら)"
《深谷(ふかや)》"蔥(ねぎ)"に、
《幸手(さつて)》『濱田商店』合鴨(あひがも)の肥膩(あぶら)
・"鮮蠔(かき)"×"黑甘藍(くろはぼたん)"
《蝦夷仙鳳址(せんぱうし)》"殼附蠔(からつきかき)"
"意大利燉飯(リゾット)"
【魚介(ポアソン、うをやかい)】:
・"馬鮫魚(さはら)"
《志摩答志島(しまたうしゞま)》八百五十匁(≒3.2kg)
【禽獸肉(ヴィヤンド、とりけだものゝにく)】:
・"炒鴨(あひがものいりやき)"
《幸手(さつて)》『濱田商店』合鴨(あひがも)
※ソース・サルミ
【甜品(デセール、あまみ)】:
・"橘子(みかん、たちばなのみ)"×"酒糟(さけかす)"
"クレープ・シュゼット"w/胡荽仔(コエンドロのたね)
"酒糟(さけかす)"に"莢(さや)ヴァニラ"ゟ(より)抽出(ひ)き、
醤汁(ソース)に、、。
【茶(カフェ、のみもの)】:
・"草本茶(くすりちや)"
・"寒具(プティ・フール、ちやうけ)"
・金塊蛋糕(フィナンシェ)
・カヌレ
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*)六千圓 + 一千二百五十圓*一點一 = 七千三百五十圓也(\7,350)。
【暗匣】:富士膠片(Fujifilm)X-T5 無反光鏡可換鏡頭照相機(みらーれす)
【鏡珠】:福倫達(Voigtländer)MACRO APO-ULTRON 2/35 @F2.4~F4
安徽長庚光學(Venus Optics)老蛙(LAOWA)2.8/9 ZERO-D @F11