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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
ミシュラン１つ星焼き鳥店の新たな挑戦「おみ乃神谷町」
ミシュランの星を撮り続けていた押上の「焼鳥おみ乃」。
その大将が、神谷町に新しい店「おみ乃神谷町」を2021年3月2日にオープンし、そちらで鶏を焼くこととなった。
押上の方は、お弟子さんが焼いている。
今回は非常事態宣言中となってしまったが、１７時スタート、アルコール無しにて訪問させていただいた。
こちらのお店では、福島県産「伊達鶏」をもちいた焼鳥だけでなく和食も取り入れた内容となっており、焼き担当の小美野正良大将と、和食を担当する荒巻将司料理長の二人を中心に料理が組み立てられている。
ちなみに荒巻さんは、銀座小十等で日本料理を６年修行された方で、赤坂おぎ乃の荻野さんは同時期の先輩にあたる。
そんな二人の織りなす４月の料理は、下記のようなものだった。
食前酒代わりのノンアルドリンク。酸味が効いており、梅酒等の代替としてちょうど良い。
ホワイトアスパラの摺り流しは、ホワイトアスパラと焼鳥を５ミリ角ぐらいに切ったものが沈められている。優しい出汁の風味もあり美味。上にのせられた花穂は、見た目だけでなく、苦みのアクセントにもなっている。
サラダ替わりの旬菜は、タラの芽、こごみ、うど、うるい、わらび、菜の花といった６種類の旬菜が用いられている。
かけられているドレッシングが控えめな甘味と酸味で、旬菜の風味をそこなうことなく旨い。
そして、焼鳥が出てくる。
まずは、血合いとさび焼き。塩の当たりが丁度良い。
続いて出た焼きナスが絶品だった。こだわりのナスを用いているとのこと。
同席していた女性二人が絶叫し、最後に追加で注文させていただいたぐらい。
しっかり熱が通っているけど、キメが細かくナスのシャキシャキ感も残っているため、食感も非常に良い。素材と、その魅力を存分に引き出した一串。
かしわ、銀杏と出て、ここで変化球。
レバーペーストを１スプーンで。匙の上にレバーペーストをひいて、そこに揚げたエシャレットが乗せられており、口内調理することでレバーペーストとして完成する。
タケノコと根三つ葉の揚出しは、そえられた木の芽の香りも心地よい。
ふっくらとジューシーな丸ハツが出て、手羽先。
この手羽先がまた見事な出来。
中には、もち米と旬野菜を詰めたもので、それにあわせたとろみのあるタレがかけられている。
イメージ的には手羽先餃子だが、見事な和食の一品料理となっている。
添えられているうどのきんぴらもまた良かった。
うずらの卵は、中は半熟でトロトロ。
おかひじきのポン酢ジュレがけでさっぱりした後、つくねが出てくる。
ふわふわで中心部はレアに近いぐらいの熱の通し方。焼くときもくずれないようにヘラを使って丁寧にひっくり返していた。
アスパラ、セセリ、どんこ、軟骨という焼き物が続く。
軟骨は肉付きが良く、軟骨部分とのバランスも良い。
厚揚げは、表面がカリリとしており、上に乗せられた薬味類が、豆腐の旨味をひきたてる。
そして、ご飯。グループ毎に土鍋で炊き立てを出してくれる。
米は、新潟県笠原農園南魚沼産こしひかりで、一杯までおかわりできる。
一緒に出されるのは、鶏スープ、鶏そぼろと卵黄漬け、ご飯のともとして、肉味噌、キュウリの朝漬け、こぶの佃煮。
まずは、ご飯のともで１膳。その後、鶏そぼろと卵黄漬けをご飯に乗せてミニ鶏そぼろ丼に。
炊き込みご飯にしない、シンプルな白米が実に旨い。
一連の料理の流れが、ここで締めくくられる。
そしてデザートに桜フレーバーのブランマンジェとアイス。こちらには、牛皮も間に挟まれている。和のテイストも併せもったデザート。
ミシュランの星を取りながらも、単なる移転ではなく料理のスタイルをも変えての再出発。
しかも、このコロナ禍の中。
それでもオープンさせたのは、小美野大将に明確なビジョンがあったからなのだろう。
今回、実際に料理をいただき、店の雰囲気を感じ、大将の料理に取り組む姿を見て、ああ、この店もまた、ミシュランの星を取るのだろうと、そう思わされた。