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泳ぐ稚鮎
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ダイセンの雲丹てんこ盛りです。
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大トリの穴子
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甘み凝縮のほおずき
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桜海老の天丼
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天茶漬け
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お土産の天かすも溶けます。
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
風薫る新緑の季節、令和に改元される5日前に わずか10席の貴重なプレミアムシート
に初めて着座する機会に恵まれました。
東京の名だたるグルマンのみなさまだけで 席が埋まってしまうこともしばしば。。。
食べログ活動始めてまだ半年に満たない私などが臨席することは憚れましたが予約日
に思い切って電話をかけたところ、数回のトライでつながり幸運にも伺う機会を得る
ことができました。
正直申し上げると、元々 てんぷら にはそんなに食指が動くほうではありません。。。
東京のてんぷらの名店 近◯さんの常連で、にい留さんが新栄で営業されていた頃から
通われている食通の方のお話を伺ったり、レビュアーのモラ◯◯アさんのコメントを
拝読しているうちに、だんだんと気持ちに変化を来たし始めました。
妻に関しては、てんぷらが大好物で、この4月に新たな就職先が決まったこともあり、
お祝いを兼ねて 、にい留さんに 一度は伺いたいと決意した次第です。
この日は 18時からの予約です。
地下鉄高岳駅からの道すがら、人気パティスリー slowさんに立ち寄り 前回売り切れて
いたカヌレを購入しました。
そして、名古屋で一番早く桜が満開になるオオカンザクラの並木道を 北上します。
瀟洒なマンション２階のお店の前に着いたのは、予約時間の10分前、まだ引き戸が閉
まっています。
18時きっかりに、女将さんが中へ招き入れてくださいます。エントランスを抜け、凛
とした風情のある店内に入ると、迎えて頂いた新留大将の笑顔が印象的です。
いよいよ新留劇場の始まりです。
本日の賓客の皆様は、関東方面の方が４人、日本の銘店を巡っているという韓国から
の青年、お医者様らしきご夫妻とその関係者、私たち夫婦の5人が地元名古屋からと
いう按配です。
一部の常連さんを除きみなさん最初は、緊張感を漂わせていましたが、時間が進むに
連れて、新留ワールドの一体感に取り込まれ、次第にお互いに和気藹々となり、饗宴
を一緒に堪能することができました。
私たち夫婦は、まずは生ビールを所望して、今日が誕生日の韓国の青年が高級シャン
パーニュを開けるのを横目に、その後は日本酒を酌み交わしていきます。
最初に供されたのは、鮃の刺し身。濃厚で例えようのない旨味があり、お寿司屋さん
でも食べたことのない美味しさです。 鰹、平貝、アサリ汁と秀逸なおつまみ系の料理
が続きます。
さらに 烏賊の煮凝り、蟹と内子ともずく に至っては、悶絶ものの美味しさです。
天婦羅屋さんの料理とは思えない秀抜さに圧倒されます。
そして、いよいよ料理は お待ちかねの てんぷらに移っていきます。
車海老から始まり、烏賊、こしあぶら、大葉と白魚、雁足、鱚、青唐辛子、トウモロ
コシと続きます。
すべての天タネを纏った衣は、口の中に入れるとホロホロと溶けていき、タネを噛む
とその素材の旨みが、口いっぱいに広がり、鼻腔を通した美味しさを感じることがで
できます。
新留さんの真骨頂である稚鮎の天ぷらでは、まるで生きて泳いでいるような鮎の姿が
圧巻です。
一口噛むと、最初に苦味があり、そのあとすぐに甘みが広がり、その美味しさに暫し
恍惚感に浸ります。
興奮冷めやらぬまま、次から次と絶品のてんぷらのオンパレードは続きます。
蛤、アスパラガス、赤座海老、筍、そして 超絶雲丹を海苔のてんぷらの上にてんこ盛
り。一箱5万円と言われるダイセンの高級雲丹を二箱 惜しげもなく総ざらいして使って
いただきます。
これだけの雲丹を一度に食するのは初めてで雲丹好きには幸せ感が満載です。
フィナーレは椎茸に続く穴子です。
20センチ近くはある穴子のてんぷらを鉄の菜箸で、魔法のように二つに割る技に見とれ
てしまいました。
お口直しのデザートは、これまで食べたことのない甘みが凝縮したほおずき。
そして〆のご飯は、私が天茶漬け、妻が桜海老の天丼です。私以外の9名は、桜海老の
天丼を選びました。
本日18時にスタートした饗宴を後にしたのは、すでに22時半を過ぎていました。
全く時間を感じさせない、にい留ワールドに引き込まれました。
新留大将の向上心、探究心、サービス精神、そして名古屋の地で、東京に負けない優れ
た料理を提供するという心意気にも触れることのできた4時間半の幸せなひと時でした。
今後予約の半分を私の相性のよくないomakaseシステムに変えるとのことで予約が取り
づらくならないか心配ですが、蟹の美味しい季節にぜひ再訪したいです。
評価は、最高値も考えましたが、食べログ活動半年生がそれをしたら、進化の楽しみが
なくなると思い、僭越ですが、今後の期待値を引き算させていただきました。
ご馳走様でした☆
、