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銀座、王子製紙本社前の雑居ビルの中にある昼、夜共に1日1組のみの貸切レストラン。(昼は希に2組入る場合があるらしい)
ミシュラン3星銀座「小十」2番手、坂内晃氏が開いたお店「東家」。
ワンフロアー全てが「東家」。
入口をくぐるとテーブルが2席のみ。
和紙に墨汁を含ませた壁紙が独特な雰囲気を醸し出している。
さて、陽気な奥様のご挨拶に続く料理。
その姿はまさしく「小十」そのもの。
料理のポーションが大きく素材の質に驚きが無いのも「小十」と全く同じ。
今回のコースでは唯一、カツオのタタキにのみ感動を覚えた。
自家製ポン酢、客に出す少し前に藁で炙ったカツオのタタキの香ばしさは大変に素晴らしい。
こんなカツオに巡り会えることは滅多にない。
これこそ坂内氏の実力を証明する1品だろう。
只、折角こんな面白いコンセプトでレストランをするのであれば「小十」の範疇を超えたような面白い角度で攻めるべきだと思う。
「小十」はあくまでも手本であって目指すべき道ではない。
ご夫婦で運営されているようだが入店そうそう使われていない片方のテーブル上にグラスが並べられたりと身内で運営することによって若干緊張感が欠けているのではないかと感じてしまった。
高級な銀座レストランならこういう部分は見せて欲しくないというのが正直なところ。
今のままでは折角の「東家」コンセプトも夫婦経営という諸刃の剣がマイナス要因となりかなりぼやけてしまっている。
夫婦経営を最大の武器にすべきだろう。
もちろん筋は非常によいわけで、あとはどの様にして「東家」の独自性を見いだしていくかといったところだろうか。
最後に坂内氏自らがお茶を立ててくれるのも風情があって面白い。
だが客は料理を食べに来ているのであって茶を飲みに来ているのではない。
「青柳」小山氏でも「小十」奥田氏でも無い「東家」坂内氏の個性を真に追求すべきだと思う。
期待を込めてこの評価としたい。