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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
何となく、時系列で書きたいため、二回目訪問のレヴューは最後尾に。
此方のお店は、有るときふと理由なく目に留まり、そのときは何気なくBMしていただけでした。だんだん有名なレヴュアーの方の投稿を意識して見るようになり、その中である時期から急激に投稿が増え、見る間に評価が上がって来ておりました。そして、よくよくレヴューを読んで行くと、とんでもない仕事をなされていることを把握。
以前の上京時に行かなかったことを激しく後悔し、出張の日程が決まっていた今の時期を虎視眈々と待っておりました。
予約の段階で、一応4か月前位に、お店の予約システムを教えて頂くため、電話させて頂きましたところ、女将さんが丁寧にシステムを教えて下さり、その優しい応対に安心感が芽ばえました。
後は時が過ぎるを待つのみ、二月前の始業日に仕事の合間を縫ってお電話し、細やかな調整もして頂き、無事に予約完了。既に達成感を感じてしまいました。
前置き長すぎでした。
さて、皆様のレヴューによると予約時間の少し前から入ると、その順でご案内頂けるとのことで、２０時の10分前に到着。蒲田の駅前の喧騒が途切れるかどうかという辺りで瀟洒な洋館が夜の帳に佇んでおります。玄関の暖簾、燈籠が和の雰囲気を作り出しております。玄関から入ると和の調度品で装飾された小上がり。ちょうど時期であることから可愛らしい華やかなお雛様が飾られておりました。
女将さんが直ちに応対に出られ、予約治の名前を確認し、挨拶を交わすこととなりました。ものすごく応対が穏やかで笑顔の素敵な方で、大きな安心感に包まれました。
一番に客席に通していただき、飲み物を尋ねられたため、日本酒でおねがいしたいことをお伝えしました。一組ずつ通され、この間にそれぞれのお客と女将さんのコミュニケーションが図られている印象が強かったです。完全入れ換え制の、強制感を感じずに済むご配慮なのかと愚考しました。
少々遅れて到着されたお客様もいらっしゃいましたが、親方の臨場により開始となりました。
まずはシャリの赤ちゃん。
米は表面荒く、酸味が大きく旨味を上回って印象。
・小肌 勝山産
温度と酢の工夫でここまで小肌が変わるのか、という印象。甘味さえ感じられる。
・岩手県は陸前高田、米崎の牡蠣。
牡蠣の養殖に拘った生産者のお話も。震災後、ここまでの牡蠣が獲れるようになったかと感銘を受けました。地元ではこんな代物は滅多に手には入りませんが(苦笑)
焼きの温度、シャリの温度の妙技により、口内がとんでもなく豊潤な旨味の奔流に。
・白甘鯛
４kgの怪物。日数失念したが、かなり熟成されていた印象。脱水による干物感と旨味のバランスがお見事。
・赤貝
聞き間違いかもしれませんが、宮城県と岩手県の県境が産地、閖上ではなかったような。十分な旨味と香りが立つ。
・ここで本日の鮪の紹介。あわせて記念撮影。
一つは那智勝浦134kg。もう一つは６日間熟成された壱岐。「特等席」だったため、眼前で拝むことが出来ました。
これらを赤身、中とろ、大トロに分け、そのままと漬けにする方針を拝聴。
・真魚鰹
個人的にこれを熟成して食べたこともあり、よくわかるが濃すぎる脂の旨味への変換に脱帽。
・後程登場する毛蟹を活きたまま紹介、厨房に消える。
・赤身
何より28℃の温度による味覚の強制解放。血の香りというより更に旨味を増した、表現の範疇にない味。
漬けはグッと酸味と旨味の深みが出る。最上の鮪を食べてしまって、もう後戻りはできなくなってしまった。
かつて漬けなしの鮪の有無を論じたレヴューが見られたためだからだろうか？赤身そのままが食べられてうれしい。
・間八
30kgの怪物。漬けにされ、異常な香ばしさと旨味に悶絶。
・白子
話題のトリュフはなかったが、その品のある旨さと身質に悶絶。
・中トロ、漬けも。
脂が加わり、赤身とはまた異なる桃源郷。
・唐墨挟み烏賊
酒飲みにはたまらない凝縮された旨味。
・ご夫婦総がかりでほぐした毛蟹。
手毬上になり、シャリの存在は視認できずも確かに蟹を支える。悶絶。
そして、日高見を煮切り甲羅酒スープに。蟹の大群が口内で暴れまわる。
・大トロ
悶絶。
・大トロ付け炙り
悶絶～昇天。
・そしてとどめの鮪全員集合巻。
昇天～もはや気化してしまいそう。
・干瓢
落ち着いた丁寧な干瓢巻。滋味深く、祭りの後の侘びを感じる。
・玉子焼き
ふわふわ、サクサクの食感。酔いを醒ましてくれる。
・お茶
味わいと香り深く、意識を醒ましてくれる。
頂いた日本酒
・七田 純米無濾過 ７５％精米 山田錦１００％
酸味、旨さが立ち、燗したくなってしまう。温度上昇により甘味がまとまる。
・五凛 純米 60％精米山田錦100％
酸味、控えめな渋みがキレを演出。
・旦 純米 60％精米 酒造好適米
粗いが太い旨味濃い。
・菊姫 吟醸 あらばしり 吉川町産特A山田錦55％精米 燗
あらばしりといえど菊姫。圧倒的なお寿司達に負けない。
・九頭龍 純米 五百万石 65％精米 燗
菊姫より優しく上品。
とにかく、親方と女将さんの織り成す劇場に圧倒され続けた２時間半でした。その圧倒的な美味、仕事の内容を明らかにして知的好奇心を高める楽しさ、演出を見る楽しさ、貴重な体験を共有できたという充足感、などとにかく魅せられました。
親方も、個人の質問に対応できる状況であれば、包み隠さず仕事の内容を教えてくださいますし、女将さんは非常に細やかなお気遣いをしていただいて、今まで伺ったどの店よりも幸福感に包まれてお店を後にすることが出来ました。
ドリンクの評価だけが低いのは、最近とみに先鋭化している自分の日本酒の好みのせいです。女将さんも柔軟に対応してくださいますし、意識も高く、いろいろ相談させていただきながら楽しみ方を構築できそうな期待も込めての点数です。
１年後に上京できる日が当日に確定したため、先走りすぎ感たっぷりでしたが予約してしまいました。もちろんそれまでに状況の機会があったら必ず予約を敢行するつもりですが。
本当に素晴らしいおもてなし、誠にありがとうございました。
28/9/2 20:00~の部
半年前に取っておいた予約を実行する日がついに来ました。
蒲田は初音鮨。私の中では目黒のいずみと双璧を成す、最強の仕事寿司。
今は来年五月まで予約埋まっているとのこと。もう一回分取っておけて良かったです。
恐縮なことに、二回目訪問の私を覚えていて頂いたようで、親方と女将さんのおもてなしも、半年前と寸分違わず、いやそれ以上に心なごませて頂きました。
まずは日本酒
土佐しらぎく 吟醸酒
さっぱりとした酸味から甘さが旨味をつれてくる。温度上昇と共に甘味が出る。
大那 夏純吟 無濾過生詰
グッとくる旨味と酸味、甘味のバランス良い。
隆 純米吟醸 若水使用
凝縮した酸味と甘味、さっぱりと渋味が締める。
持ち込みの王禄 相伝 木桶しこみ
舟しぼり無濾過生原酒 17BY
濃厚な酸味、旨味と甘味が練り込まれている。熟成香は大人しく、初音の寿司に負けない。
菊姫 呑切原酒
ギュッとした酸味から圧倒的な旨味が攻め込む。後半の鮪のぜんぶ巻きに負けない負けない。
以下は握り。煮きりから塩に変遷の模様。
久里浜の蛸
久里浜の真鯛。旬の時期が２つあり、春の桜に対し、秋のもみじに倣うもみじ鯛。
達磨烏賊は呼子産
＋能登産のバチコ。巨大。
ガリ
恒例の本日の本鮪紹介。戸井116kg。
鮑 大原の800g
琵琶湖の天然鰻
本鮪 赤身 塩をひとふり
本鮪 赤身 漬け
鱧の紹介 淡路の由良？産、６時〆。波打つように反射が出ている。
本鮪 中トロ塩
本鮪 中トロ 漬け
鱧は炙られて、卵も載せて。
伊勢海老の捌きを見学。汁と九頭龍純米のカクテルに。
イクラ
本鮪トロ
伊勢海老の蒸し、ミソと和えて
大トロ炙り
鮪尽くし巻き
かんぴょう巻き
玉子
また半年後に参ります。