猪コースで猪鍋と猪肉の炭火焼きを堪能。囲炉裏の炭火の温かみで人生を考えなおす : 猪料理 やまおく

やまおくでイノシシコースを堪能。
イノシシコースと猪豚コースと豚コースを選べる。迷わずイノシシコースを選択したが、電話予約の際は猪豚コースが若干紛らわしいので要注意だ。

お店に着くと、いろり端に案内される。というか全席囲炉裏端。炭の匂いと、静かに立ち上がる熱気。この“準備されている感”がたまらない。予約してあったためか、席の時間制約のためか、席には既にグツグツになった猪鍋がレディ状態。

いろり焼きの猪肉は、火の入り方が特にいい。炭のやわらかな熱でじっくり焼かれていくから、表面は香ばしく、中はしっとり。噛むたびに脂の甘みと野性味がふわっと広がるのに、全体は驚くほど上品。焼きながら自分のペースで食べられるので、旨みのピークを逃さないのも良い。

特に味噌仕立てのスープが美味しい。白味噌？赤味噌？そもそも信州味噌なんだろが、巧みなブレンドに多めの野菜や、イノシシの旨みが出ててたまりません。時間短縮のために、一杯食べたら、すぐにうどんとお餅を投入されてしまい、ちょっとスープが濁ったのが残念ですが、スープ絶品でした。やっぱり落ち着いた時間枠であらかじめ予約しないとダメですね。

いろりの火を眺めながらゆっくり猪を味わえる、なかなか他では味わえない時間でした。
今回はゆっくりじゃなく実質45分間の早回しだったけど…。

帰りに店内にある猪の剥製に向かって敬礼！。
熊じゃなくてよかった。

Enjoyed the full wild-boar course at Yamaoku.
You can choose from the Wild Boar Course, the Inoshishi–Pork Hybrid Course, or the Pork Course. I went straight for the Wild Boar Course—though when making the reservation by phone, the “hybrid pork” option sounded similar enough to be confusing, so take note.

Upon arrival, I was shown to a seat by the irori hearth. Actually, every seat is by an irori. The smell of charcoal and the gentle rise of heat—there’s something irresistible about that quiet sense of readiness. Perhaps because I had reserved, or simply because of the time limit on the table, a pot of boar hotpot was already bubbling away, fully “ready” the moment I sat down.

The boar meat grilled over the irori cooks particularly well. The soft heat of the charcoal lets it grill slowly—crispy and fragrant on the outside, moist inside. Every bite releases a sweet fattiness and a touch of wildness, yet the overall impression remains surprisingly elegant. Since you grill it at your own pace, you never miss the peak moment of flavor, which is a real plus.

The miso-based soup was especially delicious. White miso? Red miso? Probably Shinshu miso as the base, but whatever the blend was, it was expertly balanced. With plenty of vegetables and the deep umami of the wild boar, it was irresistible.
Unfortunately, in the interest of time, they added the udon and mochi right after my first serving, which muddied the broth a bit—slightly disappointing, but the soup itself was still outstanding. Next time I really should reserve a more relaxed time slot.

Being able to savor boar meat while watching the irori fire—it’s the kind of experience you don’t easily find elsewhere.
Although this time, instead of a slow, leisurely meal, it turned into a fast-paced, 45-minute sprint…